Growing vegetables

All articles about growing vegetables

Onions (maincrop)

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Growing onions
Intro: 

Growing onions from onion bulbs pre-started into growth before sale (called onion sets) is easier and more reliable than from seed and makes growing onions a fairly simple matter.

Here's a how-to on both methods...

Location and soil
Type of soil: 

Onions do well in a rich, light soil, but it is most important the soil is firm. Prepare the soil well in advance of planting and rotate the onion bed in the same way as the rest of the allotment beds.

Location: 

Onions like a sunny position

Sowing seeds
Seed picture: 
Sowing seeds: 

Seeds
Sow maincrop onion seeds as soon as your soil warms up (around 50 degrees f or 10 degrees c) – end of Feb to beginning of April for an August to September crop.

Sow the onion seeds very thinly into drills 7mm(1/4") deep, in rows 30cm(12") apart. finely cover the seeds with soil and gently water in. Germination takes around three weeks.

Thin out your onion seedlings when they have pushed through the soil and are standing vertical to about 3cm (1") apart and then again later to 12cm (4") apart. Thin carefully when the soil is moist and remove thinnings from the bed so as not to attract onion fly.

Onion sets
Plant out your onion sets mid March to mid April... 12cm (4") apart in rows 30cm (12"). Make a small hole in the soil and plant the onion set so the growing tip is just at the surface. Firm and water in.

Looking after the crop
General care: 

Watering will be required in dry periods until the middle of August. Stop watering then to encourage the maturing process. Weed thoroughly throughout the growing season.

Harvesting the crop
Harvesting: 

Maincrop onions are ready for harvesting a week or so after the foliage starts to turn brown and tips over .

Pick a dry day, ease the onions roots from the soil with a fork and leave the onions to dry in the sun.If the weather is wet lay the onion plants in trays or on sacking in a well ventilated area indoors.

Maincrop onions should keep for about a couple of months

Parsnips

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Parsnips
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These hardy winter vegetables have sweetly flavoured roots that can grow to huge sizes depending on the variety

Location and soil
Type of soil: 

A rich well-broken soil completely cleared of stones

Location: 

They are not too fussy, prefering an open sunny site but able to tolerate light shade

Sowing seeds
Sowing seeds: 

It is best to sow parsnip seeds in late winter or early spring - but you can still get a decent crop if you sow in early summer.

Sow in a 2cm deep drill and space the seeds to about 5cm apart. Make the rows at least 35cm apart.

Choose a calm, windless day to sow as the seeds are very light and feathery and blow away easily.

Looking after the crop
General care: 

Parsnips need to be well weeded but care must be taken not to damage the crown of the root as this can lead to canker.

Over-watering produces leaves rather than roots.

Harvesting the crop
Harvesting: 

Start to harvest parsnips about four months after sowing - in autumn and through the winter.

Lift with a fork. Any roots remaining after the autumn can safely be left to overwinter in the ground. Frost improves the flavour.

Varieties
Variety description: 

Avonresister

Variety description: 

Cobham Marrow

Variety description: 

Tender and True

Pests
Pest or disease: 

Carrot root fly

Pest or disease: 

Canker

Tomatoes

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They’re tasty and they’re good for you, packed with vitamins A and C, offering protection against cancer. And they taste SO much better than the ones you’ll get down the supermarket…

If you choose bush tomatoes, you won’t need to prune, but there are dozens of different types, shapes and flavours to choose from and experiment with.

Location and soil
Type of soil: 

Fertile soil is key. They’ll do well in growbags, or in large containers of fresh potting compost. You can plant them in the ground, provided you’ve enriched the soil with plenty of well-rotted organic matter

Location: 

They need warmth to succeed, and if you grow them outdoors, you’ll need to plant them in a sunny, sheltered site, such as against a south-facing wall.

Sowing seeds
Sowing seeds: 

Raise in a propagator or under glass from February to March at around 19 degrees (65F)

Sow the seed quite sparely and then sieve compost to cover them. Stand the container (foil tray, seed tray, yoghurt pot, anything so long as it has drainage) in water to let the compost soak it up. If you water from above you’ll wash away the seeds.

Wrap up in clingfilm or cover with glass if you don’t have a propagator and they shouldn’t need watering again until they’ve germinated. This should take about 8 – 11 days.

As soon as you see them poke up through the soil, take off the cover and lead out of direct sunlight in a bright place.

When the seedlings are big enough to handle you are ready to pot them on. Make sure they’ve been watered ahead of time and have some containers filled with compost and a hole made with a pencil for each plant. Ease out your seedlings and making sure you touch the leaves, NOT the stems, move to their new pots, with the first set of leaves just above the compost surface. Firm and water well.

Harden off the seedlings carefully. This means preparing the young plants for the world outside.

Put them in a cold frame at first with the lid off during the day, but cover up on cold nights.

In early summer, when they are about 6 – 8 inches tall, plant outside in a sunny, sheltered spot, putting climbing types 45cms (18ins) apart and the bush ones 60cm (24in) apart. Mulch them and cover them with fleece or cloches (you can use clear 2L water bottles, with the ends cut off).

Looking after the crop
General care: 

If they’re not bush types, tie the main stem loosely to a can and cut out the side shoots which appear where the leaf stalks join the stem. Pinch them out when they are about one inch long

When the plants are about 4ft tall, remove the leaves below the first truss.

You must water regularly…if you don’t the fruit might split. And feed with a soluble tomato fertilizer every time you water.

Harvesting the crop
Harvesting: 

Pick ripe tomatoes when their red colouring is even and there is no green left showing. They should have a very 'tomato-y' aroma.

Unripe fruits can be ripened by placing them in a dark drawer - don't let them touch each other or they'll rot. Put a over-ripe tomato, apple or banana in the drawer with them - it will emit ripening gases which will make the tomatoes ripen faster

Varieties
Variety description: 

Alicante

Variety description: 

Gardener’s Delight

Variety description: 

Ferline

Pests
Pest or disease: 

Whitefly

Pest or disease: 

Spider mite

Pest or disease: 

Leaf mould

Pest or disease: 

Greenfly

Pest or disease: 

Tomato blight

Swedes

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They may not be glamorous, but once you’ve grown and tasted your own, you’ll never want to buy one in a shop again

Location and soil
Type of soil: 

well-drained, moisture-retaining soil which has had loads of organic matter added to it, preferably the previous year.

Location: 

Swedes like full sun

Sowing seeds
Sowing seeds: 

Sow in rows in watered drills about 18 ins apart, thinly at a depth of 2cm on light soils, or ½ inch on heavier ground.

Sow directly into the prepared soil in late spring in cold areas, or in early summer in warmer regions. Thin the seeds about three weeks after sowing, but try to transplant because they hate being disturbed. The final spacing of the young plants should be about 10ins apart.

Looking after the crop
General care: 

Hoe between the plants to kill the weeds but be careful not to damage the young swede roots. If the weather’s dry, mulch with dry peat.

The main difference between turnips and Swedes is that Swedes are used in winter, while turnips are harvested in summer and autumn. A touch of frost improves the flavour

Leave in the ground until spring and they’ll produce greens to eat

Harvesting the crop
Harvesting: 

Sowing to harvest time is approx  20-24 weeks. They can be harvested as soon as they are large enough to use the bigger the better.

They can take up to eight months to mature. They are winter hardy, so you can harvest them as required over autumn and winter and into early spring. Simply leave the roots where they are growing in the ground until they’re needed!

Some can become woody if you leave in the soil beyond early winter, so lift them for storage before then.

Storing: Top and tail them and store indoors, packing them in layers in a box and covering them with fine sand. They can also be stored loose in a sack - but watch out for mice or rats.

Varieties
Variety description: 

Magres

Variety description: 

Ruby

Red Peppers

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Deliciously sweet, red peppers like warmth and shelter, but with care you can successfully grow them here. A dozen plants should provide enough for two families

Location and soil
Type of soil: 

They need a well-drained, fertile soil

Location: 

A sunny, sheltered location

Sowing seeds
Sowing seeds: 

Start sowing indoors in late winter, and transplant into the garden when the soil has warmed and there’s no danger of frost.

Plant the seedlings about 18 to 24 inches apart – a dozen plants should provide enough peppers for most families.

Looking after the crop
General care: 

Raised beds, black plastic mulch and cloches can all be used to keep the soil warm and drained (peppers hate wet soil) in spring, when cool weather can harm the young plants.

it’s essential they get a uniform moisture supply, especially during the harvesting season, so be sure to water regularly.

Early in the season, extreme cold may prevent fruit to set. The most common problems later in the season are hot, dry winds and warm nights (above 70°F). Pepper plants that have no developing fruit attached normally maintain a greener, healthier appearance because all the nutrients can go into producing leaves and stems instead of fruit.

Harvesting the crop
Harvesting: 

Green bell varieties are usually picked when they are fully grown and mature—3 to 4 inches long, firm and green. Coloured bell pepper fruits may be left on the plant to develop full flavour and ripen fully to red, yellow, orange or brown; or they can be harvested green and immature.

When the fruits are mature, they break easily from the plant. Less damage is done to the plants if the peppers are cut rather than pulled off.

Pests
Pest or disease: 

People who use smoke should wash their hands with soap and water before handling pepper plants to prevent spread of tobacco mosaic disease. Grow resistant varieties if possible.

Pest or disease: 

Watch for greenfly on the underside of the leaves, especially near growing branch tips

Pest or disease: 

Lots of aphids cause a sticky "honeydew" to appear on the lower leaves and fruit

Pest or disease: 

Blossom-end rot causes small, dry, sunken black areas near the ends of the peppers. This is a condition more commonly associated with tomato. It is caused by drought or irregular watering. Blossom-end rot is more severe on some varieties of peppers than on others. Remove infected fruits and throw them away. Irrigation and mulching can help to prevent blossom-end rot.

Radishes

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A very easy-to-grow, hardy vegetable, which is spicy and crunchy and great in salads or straight from the ground, picked while you’re passing, with the dirt rubbed off first on your jeans! They are fast-growing and usually mature in about four weeks. The large winter and Oriental radishes are great winter vegetables

Location and soil
Type of soil: 

Radishes will gorw in almost any kind of soil

Location: 

Radishes like sun and also partial shade. They are good to grow in amongst peas or beans as this provides the ideal conditions

Sowing seeds
Seed picture: 
Sowing seeds: 

Radishes can be sown from early spring until early autumn, thinly, in drills about 1cm deep that have already been watered. Make small sowings throughout the season, and grow them among the slower-growing crops to fill gaps.

Looking after the crop
General care: 

Water carefully in dry weather or they may bolt or become woody - but don't overwater, which makes them put all their energy into the leaves and not the radish. And water regularly otherise they can split.

Harvesting the crop
Harvesting: 

Summer radishes are best at about five weeks after planting. Left longer, they go a bit limp and leathery.

Winter radishes take about three or four months to reach their peak.

Keep the tops on and they'll store longer in the fridge

Varieties
Variety description: 

French Breakfat, mild-tasting on first harvesting, but becoming hot if left in the ground

Variety description: 

Marabelle, small-leaved and easy to grow

Variety description: 

Scarlet Globe, fast-growing and widely grown

Variety description: 

Sparkler, reliable and quick to mature

Pests
Pest or disease: 

flea-beetle

Pest or disease: 

slugs and snails

Pest or disease: 

cabbage root fly

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