Tomatoes

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Intro
Intro picture: 
Intro: 

They’re tasty and they’re good for you, packed with vitamins A and C, offering protection against cancer. And they taste SO much better than the ones you’ll get down the supermarket…

If you choose bush tomatoes, you won’t need to prune, but there are dozens of different types, shapes and flavours to choose from and experiment with.

Location and soil
Type of soil: 

Fertile soil is key. They’ll do well in growbags, or in large containers of fresh potting compost. You can plant them in the ground, provided you’ve enriched the soil with plenty of well-rotted organic matter

Location: 

They need warmth to succeed, and if you grow them outdoors, you’ll need to plant them in a sunny, sheltered site, such as against a south-facing wall.

Sowing seeds
Sowing seeds: 

Raise in a propagator or under glass from February to March at around 19 degrees (65F)

Sow the seed quite sparely and then sieve compost to cover them. Stand the container (foil tray, seed tray, yoghurt pot, anything so long as it has drainage) in water to let the compost soak it up. If you water from above you’ll wash away the seeds.

Wrap up in clingfilm or cover with glass if you don’t have a propagator and they shouldn’t need watering again until they’ve germinated. This should take about 8 – 11 days.

As soon as you see them poke up through the soil, take off the cover and lead out of direct sunlight in a bright place.

When the seedlings are big enough to handle you are ready to pot them on. Make sure they’ve been watered ahead of time and have some containers filled with compost and a hole made with a pencil for each plant. Ease out your seedlings and making sure you touch the leaves, NOT the stems, move to their new pots, with the first set of leaves just above the compost surface. Firm and water well.

Harden off the seedlings carefully. This means preparing the young plants for the world outside.

Put them in a cold frame at first with the lid off during the day, but cover up on cold nights.

In early summer, when they are about 6 – 8 inches tall, plant outside in a sunny, sheltered spot, putting climbing types 45cms (18ins) apart and the bush ones 60cm (24in) apart. Mulch them and cover them with fleece or cloches (you can use clear 2L water bottles, with the ends cut off).

Looking after the crop
General care: 

If they’re not bush types, tie the main stem loosely to a can and cut out the side shoots which appear where the leaf stalks join the stem. Pinch them out when they are about one inch long

When the plants are about 4ft tall, remove the leaves below the first truss.

You must water regularly…if you don’t the fruit might split. And feed with a soluble tomato fertilizer every time you water.

Harvesting the crop
Harvesting: 

Pick ripe tomatoes when their red colouring is even and there is no green left showing. They should have a very 'tomato-y' aroma.

Unripe fruits can be ripened by placing them in a dark drawer - don't let them touch each other or they'll rot. Put a over-ripe tomato, apple or banana in the drawer with them - it will emit ripening gases which will make the tomatoes ripen faster

Varieties
Variety description: 

Alicante

Variety description: 

Gardener’s Delight

Variety description: 

Ferline

Pests
Pest or disease: 

Whitefly

Pest or disease: 

Spider mite

Pest or disease: 

Leaf mould

Pest or disease: 

Greenfly

Pest or disease: 

Tomato blight

whitefly trap

To beat off the whitefly in your greenhouse, buy some flycatcher pads normally sold for household use. Hang one at either end of your greenhouse and they'll pick up most of the insects.

tomato fertilizer

rather than use bought feed,why not grow a few comfrey{very easy}and make liquid feed yourself,regards

aphid killer

infuse rhubarb,they don,t like it up em!

tomatoes

i plant tomatoes after Christmas at home according to the planting by the moon manual its worked for the past 3 years.